倫敦的海底撈分店。 相片:powerapple

大英帝國的食物一向很為人詬病,特別是在以美食傳統為豪的中國人眼裏。很多中國遊客在英國,都感覺當地食品乏善可陳、難以下咽。現在好了,國內廣受歡迎的火鍋「海底撈」在倫敦中國城附近開了歐洲第一家店,4月25日開始試業,5月28日正式營業。

剛開業的海底撈一如國內般火爆,工作人員透露,5月13日之前的可預約席位已經全部滿了,只能現場排隊。

據網友曬出的賬單,三鮮鍋底和清油無渣拼13鎊(約17美元),撈派滑牛5.6鎊,精品肥牛6.8鎊,大白菜2.6鎊。這個價格肯定是比國內貴不少,據說人均35鎊左右,合308元人民幣(約45.75美元),而北京吃一頓海底撈人均是130元左右。但是考慮到倫敦的日常物價,就是一瓶礦泉水、一罐可樂也是比北京要貴一倍以上,也就覺得正常了。

去年9月在香港上市的海底撈,年初的股價在17港幣左右,現在已經30港幣了,四個月間接近翻倍。彭博上個月報道,海底撈董事長張勇婦夫的財富在2019年增加了60億美元,增幅高達79%,是亞洲財富增長最快的人。

海底撈到底有多好吃,這個問題在國內很有爭議,不少人覺得它味道並不出眾。但海底撈的服務卻是毫無爭議,就是魔幻服務的代名詞。據說,這個光榮傳統也被帶到了歐洲,在倫敦發揚光大了。一位已經體驗過倫敦海底撈的食客說,他提出想購買兩瓶肉醬,服務員立刻直接送了他兩瓶。

海底撈官網顯示,2012年海底撈在新加坡開設首家海外店,截止目前海外已開業直營門店31家,覆蓋韓國、日本、美國、澳洲等地。海底撈還稱,2019年計劃新開80家門店,其中十家新店將開在海外。緊接著,倫敦還將開設第二家門店,位於倫敦北格林威治。

不過,海底撈不管開在哪裏,好像賺的還是中國人的錢,很難打開當地人市場。據報道,目前在海底撈洛杉磯店內,美國本地人只佔到顧客總數的10%左右。第一波在倫敦打卡的顧客也稱,海底撈門口排隊拿號的人絕大多數都是華人面孔。

進入一個新的市場時,要把品牌、產品融入到當地文化和習俗中,才能吸引本地消費者。看到倫敦海底撈的黑人小哥開心的拉面,這大概也是一種融合吧。無論如何,中式餐廳怎麽才能像麥當勞那樣,以標準化的服務和產品在全球推廣,海底撈正在進行有益的嘗試。

撰文:金炎
相片:powerapple

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