Pressure is mounting for the global fashion industry to step up on climate action and substantially reduce its emissions. While a multifaceted approach is needed, the adoption of regenerative agriculture in the early stages of sourcing natural fibres such as cotton, would be a meaningful step forward.
From intercropping and drip irrigation to the use of organic compost, this approach shifts away from damage control to holistic value creation for people and planet. It nurtures soil health, protects biodiversity and improves water efficiency. Combined, these measures can boost the capacity of farms to capture and store carbon, as well as reduce emissions, all while improving farmers’ livelihoods and resilience.
There is already evidence of this emerging in real-world applications. CottonConnect, for example, has trained over 250,000 farmers across India, Pakistan, Bangladesh, Egypt, Türkiye and China on regenerative agriculture practices over the last four years.
In its second year, the training program implemented in three villages in Gujarat, India saw as many as 87% of participating farmers use all natural inputs in their fields, up from 4.3% the year prior, and a 41% reduction in greenhouse gas emissions. Alongside this, farmers are achieving greater profitability, with a 4.1% increase in yield and a 9.8% cut in input costs.
China’s influence in the global apparel industry
In 2024, China’s textile, garment and accessory exports amounted to US$301.1 billion, making it the world’s top exporter of textile and apparel. According to the National Bureau of Statistics, the country alone produced 6.16 million metric tons of cotton, representing at least a fifth of the world’s overall output.
China’s significant role in the cotton supply chain presents an opportunity – if not an imperative – for it to embrace regenerative agriculture and lower its carbon footprint. Indeed, the future of China’s apparel industry relies on its land remaining productive for generations to come. In a market that increasingly values sustainability and imposes penalties for non-compliance, it also ensures its competitive advantage.
That said, the country certainly has to contend with some unique challenges as it undertakes this transition.
Threaded with complexity – the hurdles to overcome
China’s expansive landmass sprawls from coastal plains and hills in the east to high plateaus and mountains in the west. Its diverse landscape brings with it varying weather conditions.
High humidity and rainfall in the east ensure fertile ground for cover crops and a thriving biodiversity ecosystem. In excess, however, the rain can have negative repercussions on soil structure and crop growth.
Conversely, the arid and cold west relies on irrigation, making it particularly vulnerable to water scarcity. Yet, its culture of animal husbandry offers an abundance of organic manure for composting. This range of both challenges and opportunities across the country needs to be taken into account when facilitating its regenerative transition.
Finally, there is a lack of awareness of the benefits and know-how of implementing regenerative techniques among farmers. Many have become accustomed to using genetically modified seeds and chemical fertilizers. Without an established platform for knowledge sharing on more sustainable practices, progress stagnates.
So, what can be done?
Scaling regenerative practices through a collaborative effort
Fortunately, China has good foundations to build on.
The China Cotton Sustainable Production Standard published by the China Cotton Association (CCA) in 2022 with industry partners, already offers guidance on the use of agricultural chemicals, environmental protection, and workers’ health and safety during cotton planting.
At around the same time, the Chinese Agricultural Technology Extension Association and its partners launched the High Quality Cotton Production standard, promoting the quality, sustainability and traceability of cotton. Meanwhile, the country’s ‘Zero-Growth Action Plan’ specifically focuses on regulating chemical pesticide and fertiliser use.
Now, it is about taking these initiatives further, introducing subsidies, tax incentives, low-interest loans and training to support farmers in overcoming some of the early hurdles.
According to China’s third agricultural census conducted in 2020, smallholder farmers make up 90% of the agricultural workforce. Operating on limited plots of land, they often do not have the means to afford agricultural machinery or coordinate pest control programs or market access strategies. They also struggle to access training and information on best practices. Therefore, it is critical that measures are implemented to facilitate collaboration between farmers, enabling the consolidation of land, and the sharing of resources as well as knowledge.
The public sector has a role to play in the research of new sustainable technologies and developing certification and traceability systems to build trust in the industry, open new markets and drive the adoption of regenerative practices.
But action does not lie with the Government and public sector alone. An integrated approach with the private sector is needed. They have the power to shape demand by raising awareness among consumers about the broader impacts of their purchases, and by prioritizing regenerative farming within their own supply chains. They can and should also invest in the roll-out of educational programs for farmers.
Government, brands and other industry leaders must come together in support of farmers as they navigate this promising evolution in the future of cotton. It has the potential to transform the industry, positioning China as the pacesetter towards a more sustainable, more resilient cotton supply chain.
Wenxiang Liu is China country director, CottonConnect.