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Panmunjeom, the ‘real’ DMZ and a tourism of tragedy

Finding Panmunjeom is not difficult. Simply climb into a car in central Seoul, drive in a straight line up Chayuro (‘Freedom Expressway’) alongside the capital’s Han River, and stop where South Korea ends. The journey – it takes around 40 minutes, traffic permitting – transports you from thriving, 21st century capital to grim Cold War […]